Yesterday was a real treat for me. I finally got a good night’s sleep (almost the 10-hour goal), and I headed up to the crag feeling pretty recovered, energetic, and refreshed. After warming up, I finally, at long last, managed to link through the true crux of the climb I’m trying all the way up to the redpoint crux. This was major progress for me; I still had lingering doubts about my ability to do this series of moves in sequence (instead of with a hang in between grabbing the undercling and moving my feet up, and then another hang before windmilling my left hand to the sidepull crimp with my right hand on the undercling. The undercling is all kinds of problematic for me – more power issues, as always). I also smoothed out the difficult power move at the second bolt, though I didn’t manage it in sequence…but it’s starting to feel more and more doable, as are the rest of the moves. Progress! It’s always welcome. Even if I can’t do this route this summer, it just inspires me to keep training, keep pushing, keep building power, keep getting stronger.
After another (not as good) go, I realized that I was about to rip through the skin on my right pointer finger. I decided to call it a day, since we are also climbing today (it’s our houseguest Christine’s last day here today…sad face…and we have to go to the International Climbers’ Festival tomorrow). Today, I want to try a route that I’d almost sewn together several years ago, which seems like it’d be a good contrast the other project, which challenges my power. This one is more about fingers of steel, which is what I’m best at (unfortunately – I’m so trying to change this!).
Then I got to witness a real treat…I got to watch Jonathan Siegrist flash my project. For some reason, watching people who are my size climb hard routes – especially routes I’m trying – makes me feel great joy and inspiration. It just means so much more than watching someone who’s 6 feet tall and has a plus-5 ape index or someone who’s 5 feet tall and weighs 80 pounds. I simply can’t relate to their experience nearly as much. But watching Jonathan send the route, knowing he’s coming in with the same basic physical parameters (though he packs probably 100 times as much power as I do!), it gives me greater confidence and makes me feel way more psyched up about my efforts. I actually shot a butt-shot video of it, too. Enjoy!