Summing it up: Training power endurance requires a smart use of SAID and the overload principle, using care to not overdo it (overtrain) while still pushing the body hard enough to make the physiological adaptations required for you to increasingly be able to dish out the largest portions of your power base possible for 8 to 30 moves or thereabouts – followed potentially by being able to recover while climbing on easier terrain and/or via a shake-out spot on a decent (or even not-so-decent) hold, and then being able to dish out another powerful and/or continuous sequence of moves of the same difficulty or harder or easier difficulty, as is so often the case in sport climbing.
This leads us into my next series of training entries, covering climbing endurance…and I’m guessing you probably already have an idea of how to train for better sport-climbing endurance, given the way these entries covering the basic physical demands of climbing and training for them have played out so far.
This multipart series of blogs and articles starts here, in case you have to catch up. Remember that my designation of each area as “easy,” “medium” or “hard” is purely subjective. I’ve arrived at the designations from my personal experience garnered from 20 years of climbing along with my observations from climbing coaching throughout the past four years. You may find some of the areas harder or easier to change than I do/did. You also might not agree with me or my take on things. That’s fine – feel free to take it or leave it as you wish! Also, remember that the information I provide here is purely offered as advice and that no exercises or training program should be undertaken without receiving medical clearance from a healthcare professional.
One other caveat: As will be true for all of the entries and articles in this series, if you’ve already mastered or maxed out the topic at hand to the best of your ability level, you’ll reap far fewer benefits or none at all from my suggestions – good for you that you figured it out, but sorry I couldn’t help you out more. Happy climbing, bouldering and training!