Category Archives: Climbing Training

Move of the Month 7: The Grip Release/Relax Trick (a.k.a. Avoiding Overgripping in Climbing)

My lower hand is pretty relaxed at this point, not gripping nearly as hard as my leading hand.

My lower hand is pretty relaxed at this point, not gripping nearly as hard as my leading hand.

Do you hold on tightly to every climbing hold you touch as if your life depended on it? If so, this month’s move of the month is for you!

In addition to cultivating comfort with open-handing climbing holds (discussed in Move of the Month 4), learning to relax your grip as much as possible when you climb can help you conserve strength while you climb (avoiding the dreaded pump for longer), as well as giving you more fluidity in your climbing.

One particular way to start working on this involves focusing on relaxing the grip of whichever hand is lower on a route as soon as the higher hand fully grasps its target hold. Loosening the grip of the lower hand so that it’s more of a pivot point gives you options to move in whatever direction makes the most sense. Keeping a vise-like death grip on the lower hold makes it harder to move efficiently and effectively in many situations.

Step One: Learning to incorporate this grip release into your climbing is as simple as drawing your attention to it, particularly while you’re warming up. Focus on releasing your grasp on the lower handhold and noticing how this usually makes your whole body more relaxed. Doing this consciously move after move after move – in other words, using conscious repetition – can help gradually train it into your “default mode” of climbing, so that you no longer need to consciously think about releasing your too-tight grip and relaxing every time your upper hand connects with the next hold. This is desirable!

Step Two: Since climbing at your potential is all about efficiency, start to work on relaxing BOTH hands as much as possible while you climb. You might experiment with this by focusing your attention on your hands for a given part of several climbing sessions, and noticing if you tend to routinely overgrip holds (which often leads to climbing with mostly bent arms as well, discussed in Move of the Month 6). In safe climbing situations, such as warming up with a trusted partner in the gym, or bouldering low to the ground on a traverse with a good landing and ample padding, experiment with loosening your grip on every hold you grab. Notice if you can hold on with a lot less force than you usually do. Try to release your grip as much as you can, even to the point of slipping off. Learning that sweet spot where you are holding on just enough to stay on and keep everything as relaxed as possible is ideal.

Step Three: Work on relaxing your grip with both hands while you’re resting on a hold or on a set of holds, trying to hold on with as little force as possible. Another key aspect of this involves cycling your grips, or trying to change the positon of your hands on the resting hold(s) to allow different muscles to be used. If you know the sequence ahead involves a lot of crimping, for example, it’s smart to figure out how to open-hand the rest as much as you can. If you know it involves pinching, trying to keep your thumbs out of the resting equation makes sense. Getting creative with your grip at a rest might also involve ham hocking/meat-hooking the hold(s), jamming, or another way of taking the hold(s) that allows more tired parts involved in the grip to get more rest. Hanging straight armed (Move of the Month 2) also helps make the most of rests.

This multipart series of articles starts here, in case you have to catch up – you’ll also find a full table of contents, complete with links, in that entry. This information and advice is based on my 20+ years of climbing along with observations I’ve made as a climbing coach/certified personal trainer. You might not agree with me or my take on things. That’s fine – feel free to take it or leave it as you wish! Also, remember that the information I provide here is purely offered as advice and that no exercises or training program should be undertaken without receiving medical clearance from a healthcare professional.

One other caveat: As will be true for all of the entries and articles in this series, if you’ve already mastered or maxed out the topic at hand to the best of your ability level, you’ll reap far fewer benefits or none at all from my suggestions – good for you that you figured it out, but sorry I couldn’t help you out more. Happy climbing and training!

Climbing & Training Helpful Hints and Suggestions (3): The Sport-Specific Training Approach

Weight training can be a key part of your sport-specific training program. (Image courtesy of Naypong at FreeDigitalPhotos.net.

Weight training can be a key part of your sport-specific training program. (Image courtesy of Naypong at FreeDigitalPhotos.net.)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If general, all-around fitness without boredom is what you’re after – and not reaching your personal potential in any one particular sport – well, by all means, you should go ahead and cross-train, especially if you like it! It can be a great way to develop total-body fitness, much more so than doing one or two activities that don’t necessarily incorporate your whole body/energy systems, or that might become boring and repetitive after some time, leading to a plateau, repetitive use injuries, or burnout. Cross-training can also be good for a mental break to assuage burnout and to allow the body to rest and recover (or help maintain general fitness) if you’re injured and can’t climb.

And yes, it’s possible you could make some gains from cross-training activities that might translate into a stronger or improved climbing performance or ability level. But you would be likely to make even greater gains if you invested that same amount of training time that you put into the cross-training activity into more specific climbing training aimed at addressing whatever areas need the most attention (or whatever relevant areas the cross-training activity might target). Never make the mistake of thinking that the time spent doing another activity that is not sport-specific is benefitting you MORE than training for that same sport (in your case, probably climbing) via more sport-specific training tactics would be.

Sport-specific training should include smartly designed and well-informed strength and conditioning exercise(s) that are part of an overall training plan. This is not cross-training. It falls into the category of sport-specific training. Since specificity is a key concept in efficient and effective training – the SAID principle (specific adaptations to imposed demands) – having a portion of your training time being relegated to working on enhancing your ability to perform sport-specific movements using weights or other resistance/conditioning equipment is a major plus. This falls into the category of climbing-specific training. Each exercise selected should have a clear reason for why it’s a part of your training plan – in other words, what it’s supposed to help you with in terms of your climbing performance.

Keep in mind, though, that this does not mean that every single exercise must mimic a climbing movement exactly – because there’s a good reason to seek balance in your body. In other words, developing a hunchbacked posture for climbing is probably not the best way to reach your full potential as a climber. This is elegantly and succinctly explained in “Periodization Training for Sports-3rd Edition,” by Tudor O. Bompa and Carlo A. Buzzichelli, who write, “Misuse of specificity results in asymmetrical and inharmonious body development and neglects the antagonist and stabilizer muscles. Misuse can also hamper the development of the prime movers and result in injury.” To put it simply – if you don’t also train what climbers commonly refer to as “opposing muscles,” you stand to limit your potential to get stronger in your “climbing muscles,” and you also might end up injured as a result of your disregard.

The ideal climbing training plan is tailored to you as an individual, honing in on the precise areas that are holding your progress as a climber back. It also takes into account your training age, time spent climbing, biological age, overall lifestyle, job commitments, life commitments, workout style, stress levels, gender, etc. Summing it up: if you want to dedicate as much time as you can to efficiently and effectively improving at climbing (or any other sport), don’t fool yourself into thinking that cross-training is a better way to train for that activity in lieu of performing that activity itself regularly at a high enough intensity to stimulate desired gains, coupled with sport-specific training components (i.e. drills, lifts, etc.) directly correlated to the activity, each with a precise and unambiguous reason for being included in your particular training plan. And of course, don’t forget to rest!

Read More: Cross Training Doesn’t Work and Aerobic Exercise & Strength Training-Does It Help Or Hurt?

Up Next: Move of the Month (7),  The Grip Release/Relax Trick

This multipart series of articles starts here, in case you have to catch up – you’ll also find a full table of contents, complete with links, in that entry. This information and advice is based on my 20+ years of climbing along with observations I’ve made as a climbing coach/certified personal trainer. You might not agree with me or my take on things. That’s fine – feel free to take it or leave it as you wish! Also, remember that the information I provide here is purely offered as advice and that no exercises or training program should be undertaken without receiving medical clearance from a healthcare professional.

One other caveat: As will be true for all of the entries and articles in this series, if you’ve already mastered or maxed out the topic at hand to the best of your ability level, you’ll reap far fewer benefits or none at all from my suggestions – good for you that you figured it out, but sorry I couldn’t help you out more. Happy climbing and training!

Climbing & Training Myths & Misconceptions (3): Cross-Training Is Good Training for Climbing (Part 2)

If you're running to "train for climbing," you might want to reconsider how you spend your training time. (Image courtesy of jesadaphorn at FreeDigitalPhotos.net)

If you’re running to “train for climbing,” you might want to reconsider how you spend your training time. (Image courtesy of jesadaphorn at FreeDigitalPhotos.net)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I am a recovered cross trainer myself. For a long time I believed that, even if I trained really hard for climbing, I must incorporate some cross-training into my climbing training for my “cardio fitness.” I used to cross-train numerous days a week, and this commitment to cross-training used to be a cornerstone of my “climbing training” for many years.

What was my cross-training? Running. Running for “cardio,” because for some reason, conventional wisdom said that I must do something besides specific climbing training in order to keep my “cardio” up. Never mind that climbing DOES involve cardio, or that steady-state cardio training probably isn’t the best tool for weight management  (for those who argue that they must run in order to keep their weight down).

In fact, too much “cardio” of this type can actually promote the loss of sport-specific lean body weight (LBW — or in other words, climbing muscle). Steady-state aerobic exercise, even in relatively small doses, also can sabotage your sport-specific strength and power development. Perhaps even worse, it might make you gain fat! (See “Does cardio make you fat? Study says yes.”) What climber would want this type of result from their training regimen?

If you regularly climb at a high or fairly high intensity for yourself – meaning that you get your heart rate up and are breathing hard – you already are benefitting from an effective form of cardio training called high-intensity interval training (HIIT), one of the latest exercise trends. HIIT for the general population involves performing a series of specific exercises at a quick pace that together involve the whole body,  rather than HIIT for climbers — which would feature challenging rock climbing that involves intense full-body movements followed by shake-outs on or off the rock to try to recover, followed by more intense full-body movements. If you’re lacking this type of intensity in your climbing – and your priority is improving at climbing – it’s a good idea to add in sport-specific efforts that take the principles of HIIT into account.

Note that these principles include only performing this style of exercise two or three times a week for optimal fitness, as explained in “How to Get Fit in a Few Minutes a Week.” Despite the “more is better” idea that seems to hold fast in our mindsets (similar to the myth of lactic acid), this recent research supports the “less is more” concept. This means that you can probably reap greater gains in less time by decreasing your training/climbing volume and increasing your training/climbing intensity. (Again, resting is a key part of training effectively and efficiently). See Climbing & Training Helpful Hints & Suggestions (1): Lactate Threshold Training (A) for guidance on implementing HIIT in your climbing.

As the authors of “Body by Science” note, “If you want a specific metabolic adaptation, you can produce it only by practicing that specific metabolic adaptation.”

In other words, if you want to get better at climbing, you definitely need to climb, and you need to tailor any outside-of-climbing training to directly correlate with what needs work in your climbing game. And if you want to improve at climbing hard for your body – you must invest much of your training energy into climbing hard for your body. Then rest, recover, and repeat.

Up Next Week: Climbing & Training Helpful Hints and Suggestions (3): The Sport-Specific Training Approach

This multipart series of articles starts here, in case you have to catch up – you’ll also find a full table of contents, complete with links, in that entry. This information and advice is based on my 20+ years of climbing along with observations I’ve made as a climbing coach/certified personal trainer. You might not agree with me or my take on things. That’s fine – feel free to take it or leave it as you wish! Also, remember that the information I provide here is purely offered as advice and that no exercises or training program should be undertaken without receiving medical clearance from a healthcare professional.

One other caveat: As will be true for all of the entries and articles in this series, if you’ve already mastered or maxed out the topic at hand to the best of your ability level, you’ll reap far fewer benefits or none at all from my suggestions – good for you that you figured it out, but sorry I couldn’t help you out more. Happy climbing and training!