Tag Archives: take time off

How Being “Disciplined” Can Be Undisciplined

Photo courtesy of Jody Sanborn/Jay Em Photography

Photo courtesy of Jody Sanborn/Jay Em Photography

When I was a much younger climber, I truly believed that sticking to my rigid seven-days-a-week training schedule and diet meant that I was a supremely disciplined athlete. No matter how I felt on any given day when I awoke, my training and diet plan provided me with structure and control over my reality, and I had supreme faith that by adhering to this severe program, I would at some point in the future prevail, that I would be able to mold (or should I say, “beat?”) my body into the climber I dreamed of being.

All sorts of evidence to the contrary did not shake my unwavering attachment to this type of training protocol. Never mind that many of the stronger climbers I often climbed with did not do what I did in terms of pitches per day, cardio activities, training approach, or diet. Nope. I had that sort of smug superiority that I think is hard to admit fully to oneself exists, but I definitely had it: a sort of sense that even if all these people aren’t doing what I do, at some point my commitment to restricted eating and rigorous training and a regimented climbing schedule will yield phenomenal results.

And now?

Today is my third rest day in a row, and I slept for 10 hours last night. I still feel tired, and it’s a relief not to be climbing. My shoulders still ache today, so another rest day won’t be a bad thing at all. Why climb? Why not rest? Why not explore restorative yoga more deeply? I find myself drawn to this practice now more than ever…comprehending now finally that the tightness and tension in my shoulders and neck probably have something to do with not managing stress in a life that has the potential to be relatively stress-free; I still overreact to nonemergency situations at times (especially when I’m tired) and overwork myself, too. Calming my mind through deliberate but conscious stillness; this practice of restorative yoga encourages me to open and relax areas of the body so tight from climbing, but not with the forceful (hatha) way that I tend to approach so many things, particularly about my own self and body.

Photo courtesy of Louis Arevalo

Photo courtesy of Louis Arevalo

And yet, I want to train physically, too – I want to push through some more strength and conditioning exercises soon, but I still feel that I’ve been imbalanced in my approach to this. More activity on days off from climbing is too often not what my body needs. More rest on days off is what it could use, for sure. Restful, mindful, calming yoga practice, not athletic Vinyasa flow practice. Not more lifting or climbing right now. More rest. What a beautiful thing to realize and be okay with! I’m fitter and stronger right now than I’ve ever been. Still as always, I’m not entirely satisfied with where I am; I want to be stronger and fitter yet again. And yet there is a deeper satisfaction with where I am than I used to be able to grasp; is this the start of being content with self as is, in this present moment, while still working toward improving? Perhaps.

Like so many others, I (still) have a tendency to be drawn to that which my body-being needs less of. Like attracts like; we so often resist what we need the most and will argue until we’re blue in the face as to why we need what we love to do so much, and why we don’t need what we actually would most likely benefit more from. Such is the reason why I avoided steep climbing, weight training, pull-ups, and restful practices/enough rest days for so long. And yet, so predictably it’s almost comical, it turns out that all of the above help me more than my old routine – not just in terms of climbing, but in terms of more graceful, balanced living.

Routines can be helpful but also damaging; conditioning the body to an exact and predictable routine might settle the monkey-mind’s jabbering about “losing fitness” and such, but in actuality, too much routine leads inevitably to stagnation and plateauing, again, in any area of life, not just climbing. It makes sense from an evolutionary standpoint; bodies adapt. That’s what they do! They’re built to adapt and to use less and less energy to perform the same tasks as they adapt. Carry on with the exact same routine for long enough, and you may actually start to lose some fitness, strength, or other type of growth as your being becomes adjusted and capable and efficient, needing to expend less energy and effort to perform what once was a challenge. Stagnation and plateauing ensues, but the comfort of the routine remains, like a security blanket not to be pried from clenching hands, determined to hide under the comforting shroud, even as the comfort slips away more and more.

Climbing 10+ pitches of vertical technical climbing per climbing day, four to five days a week…running six days a week for at least three miles per run with at least two runs of six+ miles…having the same basic personal yoga routine done from age 10 through age 38…bouldering in the gym for 4 to 6 hours per session during the off season in the hopes of developing more power and strength…sleeping six to seven hours a night regularly…stressing out about mundane mistakes…dieting by counting calories and restricting food in the hopes of taking magical pounds away to improve climbing performance and body composition…not resting according to how the body feels but according to a set schedule…

The above are just some of the dysfunctional routines I have engaged in in the past, routines that maybe served me somewhat well on the grand scheme of living life, but definitely warranted a closer look and adjustment to start reaching toward a deeper level of contentment (santosha).

For me, true discipline has come from understanding that it’s only my mind that wants a rigid routine; it’s actually more likely a smarter and more effective approach to have a less linear and predictable approach to training and climbing, as the supremely adaptable body tends to plateau with enough time spent on any given exercise regimen or routine; the more the same it’s kept without variation within the consistency, the more likely a plateau (or even a backslide due to adaptation and more efficient performance of the routine as movements become refined and less energy/effort is expended to perform those movements) is to happen.

Don’t get me wrong here. I still like routines and tend to want structure and to want to cling to routines, for sure. But awareness of this helps me mess with them more readily; knowing that regularly messing with the routine schedule or training plan will probably help push my body in a new direction, whether I change how many days or how intensely I train or where I climb or what I climb. Resting more can be good; there’s not a set number of days per week that a person must climb or train in any given week in order to achieve their optimal potential. Weeks are merely constructs that help us structure and schedule time, but a week is arbitrary in terms of the body. In fact, I strongly believe that the best way to improve at anything is to strike that delicate balance between consistency and variation – making sure things are never too routine and predictable, but that the same pertinent themes are repeated often enough to encourage whatever areas need the most improvement to improve.

Again, I’m not just talking about climbing or training here – I’m talking about the process of making changes for anyone, whether the desired changes are mental, emotional, physical, or a combination of the three. Adaptation takes time and persistence; a flexible, sustainable, and intelligently thought-out approach can help expedite the process more than a rigid structure with no wiggle room and no allowance for changes to goals as you go. As you change, your body-being’s needs will change, too, no matter what you do and where you are in your life’s journey. What serves you well today may not benefit you in the same way tomorrow. What served you well yesterday may not be ideal for you today. True self-discipline does not revolve around blindly following a routine no matter how you feel. Rather, it involves developing an awareness of these often subtle changes and a comprehension of how to manipulate your training or climbing approach (and your life approach) according to what’s ideal for your body-being on any given day.

Studying oneself (swadhisthana) with an open mind can help provide the feedback needed to creatively and adeptly respond to one’s changing needs and growth in any and all areas, as can asking for outside input from others, particularly those who know you best and/or are more informed on whatever topic you’re looking for guidance on than you are. Resting, looking inward, and pausing, or stilling the fluctuations of the mind (chitta vritti nirodha), can help you tune into your own inner truth, enabling you to embrace a productive and fulfilling approach for yourself in the present while also shining a spark of light onto your future path that has yet to be illuminated. Step by step, it will light up, shining ever more brightly as you fall into living more fully and embracing your own truth.

Plateauing on Your Climbing Project? Try This! Suggestions to Help You Send (1)

Photo courtesy of Louis Arevalo

Photo courtesy of Louis Arevalo

Taking time off might be the very last thing that a plateauing project climber might want to consider doing, but for me, it’s become one of the first lines of defense when a project seems to come within reach for a day or two, and then that reach starts to feel like it’s slipping away. The classic response to diminishing returns on a project is to start putting in more attempts on the project and refusing to take days off from a set-in-stone climbing schedule, but this can be entirely counterproductive and can lead to even more frustration and greater diminishing returns. You might eventually sneak away with a send by continuing with this approach, but chances are that if you stop this struggle sooner and employ some of the following suggestions, you would in actuality send sooner than you would by carrying on with your stubborn schedule.

If you start to low-point your project or have difficulties with moves you have been consistently doing or that used to not feel as hard to you, you are most likely in need of more rest – more days off or days away from this particular project, or both. You might even benefit from a week away from your project climbing on something else – this can allow your muscles to recover from the specific movements your project demands, while also refreshing you mentally.

More than once, I’ve lived real-world examples of this – taking a week or so away from a project that I’m close to doing, maybe climbing on some other routes, coming back much more recovered and relaxed, and sending the climb. It works, if you can calm your mind and condition it to accept that you’re making a smart big-picture decision and likely expediting your sending process. I often will also climb fewer days total during this week (give or take) away from a project. This is actually nothing remarkable to recommend; in fact, it falls in line with the idea of tapering for peak performance – something that is well understood by expert trainers for all types of sports worldwide. To stimulate a performance peak, try decreasing frequency, volume, and/or intensity, or a combination thereof, for eight days to two weeks before you want to peak.

The general expectation of far too many climbers that they should be able to maintain peak performance capabilities 24/7/365 is utterly ridiculous and unrealistic. If a climb is at or near the edge of your current athletic ability, an undulation in performance on that climb from day to day (or week to week) is natural and nothing to freak out about. The best training/climbing/performance plan will involve undulating peaks and valleys – you just want to make sure that each peak is higher than the last one, not lower, which indicates overtraining or erroneous training or detraining. If you start to experience weeks of decreasing returns, try the resting/tapering protocol suggested above. Ditto if you want to stimulate a performance peak.

Summing it up – if you’re plateauting on your project, try taking more rest days. Climb something else. Break your routine. Taper. Develop a deeper understanding of stimulating peaks and how this process plays into enjoying periodic peaks in athletic performance.

Next Up: Plateauing on Your Climbing Project? Try This! Suggestions to Help You Send (2): Tactical Changes Off-Route

Climbing & Training Helpful Hints and Suggestions: DOMS Prevention and Attenuation Tactics (IYC Series), Part 1

Severe DOMS can make your life miserable while learning how to lessen DOMS can improve the quality of your life, not to mention climbing and training! (Image courtesy of sixninepixels at FreeDigitalPhotos.net)

Severe DOMS can make your life miserable. Learning how to lessen DOMS can improve the quality of your life, not to mention your enjoyment and quality of climbing and training! (Image courtesy of sixninepixels at FreeDigitalPhotos.net)

The previous couple of entries introduced the topic of delayed onset muscle soreness (DOMS), covering the causes of and common misconceptions about this well-known phenomenon, as well as constructive ways to use DOMS to help understand your recovery status. The next few entries will discuss various ways to lessen the severity of DOMS, starting with why you’d want to do this at all. In the end, whatever interventions you choose to use should be the ones that are most effective for you as an individual, so long as they don’t have the potential to cause your body harm, regardless of whether or not there’s a study backing it up. In other works, if it works for you, do it!

Why should I want to prevent or lessen DOMS at all?

Good question. From my perspective, after spending the majority of my life as a climber (so far) experiencing relatively severe DOMS pretty regularly, I’d say it’s because being in almost constant pain after climbing or working out pretty much sucks. This makes it hard to be positive or psyched or to have good energy to put into productive rest-day activities (like writing climbing-training articles, for example!). Lessening the intensity of my DOMS has always been a major goal of mine, but it wasn’t until very recently – like this past year! – that I can say that I really have found a way to still train hard and climb hard (for me, of course, all things being relative!), but to not have severe post-exercise pain be the result after practically every high-intensity effort. Having found a combination of methods that seem to have helped alleviate my previously much-more-severe DOMS has helped improve the quality of my climbing, training and rest days – or in other words, pretty much my whole life.

This is not to say that I don’t still get sore after a hard workout, but rather, that I don’t feel so actively in pain that I can barely function or that it affects my mood. The intensity of the pain has decreased a lot. As I discuss various interventions, I’ll note the ones that seem to have helped me – and I say seem to, because I’m honestly not sure if there’s any one intervention that should get all the credit, or if it’s the combination of interventions working together. Nor can I endorse any of these methods – those I use or those I don’t – for anyone else to use. Maybe one or more of these will work for you, or maybe something else entirely. Try at your own risk, understanding that as of right now, there is no resounding scientific proof or endorsement backing any particular method of DOMS attenuation or prevention as working wonders for everyone who tries it – save resting until it dissipates.

How can I prevent DOMS?

The only way you could virtually make sure that you never, ever experience DOMS again in your life would be to avoid trying any unfamiliar, difficult, or challenging physical activity ever again in your life. This course of action is not recommended, of course – and especially not if you’re interested in improving at climbing or pushing your current level of fitness up.

Up Next Week: Climbing & Training Helpful Hints and Suggestions: DOMS Prevention and Attenuation Tactics (IYC Series), Part 2

This multipart series of articles starts here, in case you have to catch up – you’ll also find a full table of contents, complete with links, in that entry. This information and advice is based on my 20+ years of climbing along with observations I’ve made as a climbing coach/certified personal trainer. You might not agree with me or my take on things. That’s fine – feel free to take it or leave it as you wish! Also, remember that the information I provide here is purely offered as advice and that no exercises or training program should be undertaken without receiving medical clearance from a healthcare professional.

One other caveat: As will be true for all of the entries and articles in this series, if you’ve already mastered or maxed out the topic at hand to the best of your ability level, you’ll reap far fewer benefits or none at all from my suggestions – good for you that you figured it out, but sorry I couldn’t help you out more. Happy climbing and training!