Tag Archives: Ten Sleep climbing

Ten Sleep Climbing Festival Poster & Guidebook Information


It’s that time of year — when I get too busy with climbing and friends and yoga teaching and planning this AWESOME Bighorn Climbers’ Coalition (BCC) event to spend my time writing training articles. I hope you are enjoying your summer season so far! If you’re looking for training information here, just check out the Improve Climbing! portion of the site. Otherwise, I hope to see you at the Ten Sleep Climbing Festival on July 2, and also at the International Climbers’ Festival in Lander from July 13-16.

Or at a yoga class…or just out climbing…or hanging out at the Ten Sleep Brewing Company or Dirty Sally’s on a rest day…etc., etc., etc.

Don’t forget to show your support for the local climbing organization (Bighorn Climbers’ Coalition for Ten Sleep Canyon and the Bighorn Basin/Mountains area) while you’re here, either by joining the coalition ($25 for an annual membership) or simply by purchasing a copy of Aaron Huey’s latest Ten Sleep Canyon guidebook. The 2016 Xerox-Style Punk Rock Guide to Ten Sleep is 290 pages of (mostly) black and white glory and will be available for only $25 . All the same great beta and routes, with some corrections (and some new falsifications!), and comes complete with dozens of vintage punk rock fliers!

A special shout out to Aaron Huey, as he has donated all his work for this BCC fundraiser guide and has given up any connection to author profits so that the BCC can use the profits to continue its work maintaining the routes, trails, and relationships.

THIS GUIDEBOOK WILL NOT BE SOLD IN STORES OUTSIDE TEN SLEEP! So pick one up in Ten Sleep or head over to the BCC website to order your copy today! (Book will be available in almost every Ten Sleep business and online by June 15th.)





Strength Training to Improve Your Climbing: Lifts I Love (5) – Cable One-Arm Triceps Extension

Photo courtesy of Louis Arevalo Photography.

Photo courtesy of Louis Arevalo Photography.

Are you shorter than the average climber?

Struggle with mantling?

Have difficulty taking holds down past your shoulders?

If you answered yes to one or all of the above, consider adding this exercise or something similar to your (complete!) sport-specific strength-training program.

I love this lift because it has helped me tremendously in situations where I can’t quite make the reach in my pull-up range of motion, meaning I can bring the hold in question down to shoulder level, but I am still short of reaching the next hold. Having an increased ability to turn the pull into a press can be all the difference in the world in making or not making a move.

And while it’s indisputably true that it’s nice to have more reach much of the time in climbing, being stronger in this “turnover area” from pulling to pressing can help mitigate shorter climbers’ reach issues in many circumstances. In other words, the shorter you are (and the harder you climb), the more likely it is that you will see results from this lift in your climbing.

Case in point – a few years ago, I was walking some other climbers through a bunch of strength exercises, this one included. My 6’4” friend was horrified to discover how relatively “weak” he was in this motion, but it made complete sense to me – he hadn’t really needed to develop this ability for where he was in his climbing at the time. In other words, being able to press holds out wasn’t really holding him back yet.

As anyone improves their climbing ability up to a higher level, this strength development will become more and more helpful, no matter how tall the climber. There will be times when pressing a hold down farther will be key, even if you’re tall. Since one of the big ways in which climbs get harder is that the holds get farther apart, it’s a useful sport-specific strength to develop, even if you are 6’4”.

But if you’re 5’0” (or even 5’6”, like me), you’ll probably find it much more useful much earlier in your climbing development, enabling you to surmount more and more “reachy” moves with greater ease than those climbers of a similar stature who chose not to work on putting some strength work into their triceps.

Learn how to do it here: Cable One Arm Tricep Extension. For climbers, I recommend doing this with your palm facing down (pronated). This replicates the movement used in climbing more accurately.

Ten Sleep Canyon Toilets Getting Used; Your Support Needed for More Frequent Emptying

Climbing in Ten Sleep Canyon this summer? Contributing to the porta-potties provided by the Bighorn Climbers’ Coalition? Help keep them funded — and emptied more often — by making a monetary contribution to the coalition as well!

This porta-potty is funded by the nonprofit local climbing organization, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition, through an agreement made with the Bighorn National Forest.

This porta-potty is funded by the nonprofit local climbing organization, the Bighorn Climbers’ Coalition, through an agreement made with the Bighorn National Forest. It would be nice to have it emptied more frequently…